图像与物质文化(Ⅱ):汉画像所见服饰文化研究之三

项目来源

台湾省政府科研基金(GRB)

项目主持人

刘惠萍

项目受资助机构

台湾省东华大学中国语文学系暨研究所

立项年度

2017

立项时间

未公开

项目编号

MOST106-2410-H259-054

项目级别

省级

研究期限

未知 / 未知

受资助金额

566.00千元台币

学科

语文

学科代码

未公开

基金类别

基础研究/学术补助

关键词

汉画像 ; 服饰文化 ; 物质文化 ; 足服 ; 佩饰 ; Paintings of Han Dynasty ; Culture of Clothing ; Material culture ; Foot clothing ; Accessories

参与者

未公开

参与机构

未公开

项目标书摘要:近半世纪以来,随着中国田野考古工作的大力开展,大量考古材料的出土,对学术研究带来了重大的影响。其中,许多於汉代墓葬中所发现的壁画、画像石、画像砖及陶俑等图像材料,尤其引人注目。在这些汉代画像中,经常可见有许多刻绘了穿载各种如笠、帽、冠、帻、爵弁;或配戴着如帼、步摇、笄、簪、钗、华胜、头巾等各种「首服」 的男女;此外,还有更多穿着各式深衣、袍、褌、袴、襦、襜褕…等不同「身服」的人物;当然,也有一些表现穿戴如鞋、袜、履、靴等「足服」及绶、大佩等「佩饰」的形象。这些画像除了可作为汉代服饰文化的反映外,它们更是考察汉代物质文化发展的重要参考材料。为有系统地对两汉物质文化进行探讨,本计划拟以「图像与物质文化(Ⅱ):汉画像所见服饰文化研究之三」为题,在前两年度利用图像材料探讨汉代服饰文化中的「首服」、「身服」之基础上,再利用一年时间,以图像结合文献的方式,对近世考古出土之汉画像所见服饰文化中的「足服」及「佩饰」内容,作系统性地整理与分析。同时,运用图像学、物质文化研究、社会学、文化人类学、心理学等理论与方法,考索相关服饰演变的背景、因素;并探究其与汉代礼法制度、消费文化、工艺技术、庶民日常生活之关联性。希望能藉此以突显出土材料应有的价值,并归纳出「物质文化」的演进与社会发展的对应关系,开展以「图像证/徵史」的另一可能性。

Application Abstract: During the last half century,many valuable unearthed materials have been discovered by the hard works of the Chinese archaeological scholars and the results have great impacts to the academic research.Among the unearthed materials,the paintings,which were found from the Han Dynasty graves and drawn on walls,rocks,bricks,and potteries,have attracted researchers’great interests.From these paintings,we observed males put on various types of hats such as,bamboo hat,hair ornament,turban,cap,and etc.In their hair styles,they combed their hair to form anti coiling type,dropped bun type,triangular type,and concentric type.In the ornament of female’s hair from the paintings,we found different types of hairpins like Step shake(步摇),Hairpin(笄,簪,钗)and headgears like Cap worn by women(帼),head-covering(头巾),Flowers shèng(花胜)to adorn their hair.In their dresses,they wore various styles of clothes,such as Deep clothing(深衣)、Gown(袍)、Loincloth(褌、)Hakama skir(t 袴)、Jacke(t 襦)、Straight garmen(t 襜褕),The valuable materials shown on the paintings not only reflect the dressing culture of Han dynasty but also can be used to investigate the developments of Han dynasty’s material culture.To systematically investigate the developments of Han dynasty’s material culture,this project will use the title of“Images and Material Culture(Ⅱ):Studying the Dressing Culture from the Paintings of Han Dynasty 3”.Based on the study results of“Studying the Dieting Culture from the Paintings of Han Dynasty”on the last two year’s project,this project will use another one year to sort and study the material culture concerning their dressing.This project will use the method of linking paintings and literatures to do the works of analysis and investigation.At the same time,the methods and concepts of iconology,culture anthropology,sociology,and theory of material culture will be used to study the relations among law systems,consuming cultures,craft techniques and civilian’s daily lives of Han Dynasty.The variations of material civilization in dressing culture will also be studied.This project will use the research results to indicate the values of unearthed materials,conclude the interconnections of material civilization and social culture,and start the possibility of“The Uses of Images research Historical Evidence”.

项目受资助省

台湾省

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